Thursday, May 28, 2009

That Good Ol' Legendee

In 1996 Trung Nguyen made a serious investment in creating some coffees and coffeehouses that set new world-class standards.

One of their major projects was to hire a team of German scientists to learn why Kopi Luwak (weasel/civet/chon) coffee tastes so incredibly different and good. Trung Nguyen knew they could never service 800 coffeeshops and the mass market with Kopi Luwak, which is a painstaking and slow coffee to process. So they reasoned, why can't we duplicate what the furry little beastie is doing to the coffee beans when they are in his stomach?

The German scientists, being what they are - the world's top coffee scientists in R&D - were successful in isolating six natural enzymes that are responsible for the partial digestion of the bean cellulose structure, bringing the release of flavor elements that were previously unavailable, and also neutralizing any bitterness in the bean.

When TN first applied this process to their coffee, they chose a mix of beans that was popular in the cultivation of Kopi Luwak, a mix of Arabica, Robusta and Excelsa. This bean mix creates a bold profile underlying the smooth and bitter-free nature of the Kopi Luwak process.

However, as time went on and the world embraced more and more an all-Arabica fetish, many Kopi Luwaks were produced by feeding civets 100% Arabica. This creates a Kopi Luwak that has incredible high tones and a wonderful aroma that permeates the room upon opening. Arabica enthusiasts were pleased, but many people felt that the brewed coffee was not bold enough.

Trung Nguyen created the new Legendee Gold in ground format to approximate the taste of 100% Arabica Kopi Luwak. This was fine and wonderful, but they also stopped exporting the original, bolder formula. Since 2007 we have not been able to get the "Classic" Legendee, but recently we were able to buy it from the factory in Vietnam and have it shipped to us here.

So, Classic Legendee is back! At least, in the bean form. We celebrated by hosting our coffee social at our warehouse with Classic Legendee "on tap" and drank ourselves silly and hyper on Legendee.

We hope you share our excitement in the return of this Classic.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Today's coffee prices

I have been surprised to see the grocery store prices of many coffees coming down. Importing costs are incredibly high right now, and Customs and the FDA are requiring more paperwork from originators than ever before. There was a day long ago (4 years) when paperwork was simple and customs saw its job as to catalog everything that came in and watch out for specific problems. Now, customs' job seems to be to prevent all importing. Between multiple exam fees and two extra rounds of paperwork and double fees, it is obviously either a hidden tariff situation or simply a bald attempt to put small importers out of business by making the importing cost exceed 300% of where it stood 4 years ago. More on that another time...

So, with all coffee importer prices going up, why are we seeing bargains at the grocery store?

Take one example that I decided to follow through: New England Coffee placed a huge stand in all the Market Baskets in our area with 10-ounce bags of coffee selling 2 for $5.00. 2 for $5.00??? That wouldn't cover the cost of decent beans, much less packaging and marketing and the store's markup. What's up?

First, when coffee sales are down, coffee companies try to offer themselves as sacrificial lambs to the supermarkets. Coffee is one of the time-honored "loss leaders" that supermarkets use to pull customers in. That means, they sell the coffee on promotion for a small loss and hope to make it up on the grocery bill.

Second, coffee producers often target a special blend or different coffee for these promotions. Often, these blends will use inferior beans or have some other issue. To whit:

I picked up several of the sale coffees and turned them over to look at them. They looked like the usual New England Coffee product but they weren't. Nothing written about the coffee... just the flavor. Yes, they were all flavored coffees. I noted the one-way vent and squeezed the bag to sniff the aroma. Nothing happened. Thinking the bag was defective I picked up another and squeezed. Pop! The bag exploded all over me. Oops, time to hang the head and look contritely at the stocker down the aisle until her wan smile tells me that it's okay, it happens, and they will clean it up.

But now I look down at my coat. It is covered with fine brown powder that does not resemble coffee grinds. I try to brush it off with no success; it has permeated the fabric. I note that the grind of the coffee is totally uneven, much of it simply a fine powder. Other coffees brush off my clothes, this clings. What's more, it reeks of artificial caramel-vanilla fake hazelnut flavor. I smell like a bad room air freshener.

So now we see what is going on. I look closer and see that the apparent one-way-valve is a fake, it is not a valve, it is a sticker that looks like a valve. It's flat. Or else, it's a new cheap type and none of them are working. And the quality of the coffee and the overwhelming artificial scent tell me that we have cheap coffee poorly ground, loaded with artificial flavor to cover up low quality.

Now I understand the 2 for $5.00 special, it is just a specially-developed loss leader. None of the coffees on the stand are part of the company's regular line at all. It saddens me to see things like this at the market and I wish companies would not sully their names with this sort of thing. But I move on, embarrassed to be the dodo that spilled the coffee at the store, but at least secure in understanding how this special price can seem to buck the trend of coffee pricing.

Friday, May 1, 2009

Kopi Luwak - poor misunderstood civet!

Like most gourmet coffee information available on the web, there are many conflicting stories and information about this gourmet delight. It always amazes me how little effort many reporters, for instance, will go to to verify their information on a story.

Kopi Luwak coffee is "processed" by the palm civet, a shy cat-like creature who hunts at night and likes to dine on the ripest of coffee berries (coffee comes from the bean, around which are the berries, or "cherry" fruit. The (relative clean and vegetarian) animal leaves the coffee seeds in their droppings, which are collected, thoroughly cleaned, and roasted. The digestive enzymes of the civet break down coffee's typical acids and structures in a way that no other processing can duplicate, accomplishing two things: Creating the world's smoothest coffee and releasing flavors that cannot be accessed by normal roasting or handling.

The result is truly the world's "best" coffee by many definitions. The aftertaste is haunting and persistent, and one cup calls after another... which would be a terribly expensive thing if one was to believe the hyperbole about $60-a-cup coffee.

In reality, we recommend people carefully measure out their beans before they brew, allotting about 50-55 per cup, and if brewed a cup at a time, Kopi Luwak comes down to about $2 a cup. That's less than a latte at Starbucks. So, while people like to conjure images of tycoons burning $100 bills and drinking $60-a-cup coffee, that's just a fantasy.

Some Kopi Luwak myths:

Myth 1: All Kopi Luwak is similar in taste. Not true - the civets can dine on any number of coffee species and the resulting brew will be quite different. What is consistent is the smoothness and hidden aromatics that are released... but the basic flavor of the coffee can change quite a bit.

Myth 2: All Kopi Luwak comes from Sumatra.
The civet palm and its close relatives are found throughout Malaysia and certain regions of South East Asia, plus the Philippines. The Philippines offers up a notable version of their civet coffee, called Cafe Alamid (Civet Coffee), which typically comes from a civet feeding on mixed coffee species of Liberica, Arabica and Robusta. This civet coffee has a totally different and bolder flavor profile than Sumatran Arabica. But it still "tastes" like Kopi Luwak. It's hard to explain, but even though the coffees are different, you know it's Kopi Luwak each time. It's almost like recognizing a particular roast, like French Roast. The coffees may be different but French Roast has a particular characteristic you can't miss.

Today I tried an experiment. We have been carrying the My-Kap product that allows people with Keurig K-Cup brewers to brew any coffee in re-used cups. It was painful, but I measured out 55 or so beans in a scoop and ground them relatively fine, then put them in an empty K-cup and snapped on the My-Kap and brewed myself a cup of Kopi Luwak coffee. Sacrilege, perhaps. But I had to know.

The result was somewhat to be expected. There was nowhere near the bright, fresh flavor of brewing in a Vietnamese Phin Filter, Melitta one-cup or French Press. But the cup still tasted like Kopi Luwak and it still carried that incredible aftertaste that stayed with me for a half an hour after enjoying the cup. I wouldn't recommend this as a way to optimize Kopi Luwak, but it did produce a cup of coffee that most people would have found exceptional, and it told me that people who buy the coffee and brew it in their Keurig will probably not be disappointed.

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Sweeteners

I'm not a big fan of good old table sugar. The flavor is ...boring, and not worth the calories, not to mention the headache I get from it. I don't know if it's the sugar itself, or the chemicals involved in processing and refining it, but sugar = headache within about 15 minutes.

As a result, I usually use one or another sugar substitute to sweeten my tea and coffee - either Splenda or aspartame (Nutrasweet), not Sweet-n-Low, which has a funny aftertaste. But I'm always open to trying new things, and in moderation, other sugar alternatives don't bother me.

So when my local Market Basket started carrying a xyltiol-based granular sugar substitute that looks just like sugar, doesn't degrade with heat, is all-natural, and has been shown to reduce tooth decay by up to 70% (just ask Wikipedia), I was pretty excited. Check it out - it's sold under the brand name Ideal.

There's also the old standby, honey, for tea; it adds flavor and sweetness. It's no so great for coffee, though; the flavors don't agree, in my opinion.

Instead, I've started using Agave nectar, a syrup becoming more available as it appears in Stop and Shop and other large grocery stores. Agave is the cactus originally used to make tequila, but its juice is a rich and delicious source of a soluble fiber called inulin, now used as a supplement in products like Fiber One's granola bars. The juice's fiber breaks down into sugars as it is processed into syrup for sweetening. It's pretty affordable, and adds a caramel-like flavor and enhanced body to any coffee. It's also got a gram of fiber in every spoonful!

So check out your local grocery store; you might find some sweet surprises!

Monday, March 9, 2009

I'm looking forward to Espresso Pods!

I have to admit, I'm lazy. Any mess I DON'T have is fine by me. The idea of getting my favorite espressos in a portion-sized, no-cleanup Pod is pretty exciting. And, once we get these Pods, not only will I not have to clean up coffee grounds anymore, but I won't have to worry about using the bag up in time, either, since the Pods are in sealed packaging.

Espresso is one of my favorite coffee types because I don't usually drink coffee black or American-style, but instead prefer iced lattes, blended drinks, espresso mochas, and so forth. I love getting the flavor of a full glass of coffee with the richness of the milk - and, as an iced coffee fan, espresso works for me because it's easier to keep the ice from diluting it.

By the way, look for new ice cream recipes soon: I got an ice cream machine and I'll be experimenting with recipes for a while. Espresso's great for ice cream for the same reason it's great for every other specialty - all that flavor in a tight package!

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

New item: My-Kap for Keurig K-Cup Brewers

My-Kap for K-Cup Keurig brewers
The new My-Kap is an exciting new invention that fits over the top of an existing K-Cup, enabling you to re-use the Cup several times. Each time, you can fill it with your choice of coffees, including our delicious Vietnamese coffees.

Each My-Kap comes with detailed, illustrated instructions on using, storing and cleaning it, but after using it once, you will find it delighfully intuitive and simple to use. Also included is a little tool that helps get the My-Kap back off of the K-Cup after using it.

While Keurig's own My K-Cup does not require the used K-Cup and many customers like it, we have found the My-Kap easier to use, store, and clean, and we prefer the flavor of the coffee brewed with the My-Kap.

To learn more about My-Kap, visit our store.

Coffee Hours in Medford, MA

We're happy to tell you that we will be hosting coffee hours in our Medford, MA office every weekday. Our office is at 200 Boston Avenue in the Cummings Properties office building, on the bottom floor - just go in the front door, down the stairs, and turn right.

This coffeehouse is open to everyone, and is especialy convenient for other people who work in the Cummings Properties network. Fresh-brewed cups of coffee are free, and so are the delicious homemade pastries that Pearl bakes for us. Bagged coffee is available for purchase as well.

This is a great way to try new varieties of Vietnamese coffee, and probably a big step up from whatever coffee is in the break room - and the price is right! (Yes, it's really free!)

Our hours are 8:30 to 10:30 on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, and 8:30 to 5:30 on Wednesday.